Saturday, April 23, 2011

Auckland

Sunday, March 6, 2011: Vacation begins, after a close call with our passports! (Yes, we didn't realize we'd forgotten our passports until we got to SFO without them and tried to check in. Luckily we were early enough to go back home and get them.)


We landed in Auckland at 5:55 a.m. – early enough to qualify as a "night landing". The flight on Air New Zealand was pleasant as 13-hour flights go. We especially liked the flight safety video, in which we learned that "theirs" rhymes with "ears" from a furry chipmunk(?) muppet named Rico.

The airport was impressive too. Spotlessly clean, efficient, and user-friendly, it reminded us of Zurich. There were posters encouraging us to vote for Auckland International Airport for the World's Best Airport award.

I've been to 35 states at this point, and I have never seen such a poster in the US. (I'm amused to imagine what responses they'd get if JFK or LAX started a poster campaign like that. Ha!)

The survey's results are below, and funny enough, Zurich and Auckland were neck and neck, at 7 and 8. Unsurprisingly, there were no American airports in the top ten. Sigh.

1
Hong Kong International Airport
2
Singapore Changi Airport
3
Incheon International Airport
4
Munich Airport
5
Beijing Capital International Airport
6
Amsterdam Schiphol Airport
7
Zurich Airport
8
Auckland International Airport
9
Kuala Lumpur International Airport
10
Copenhagen Airport

There were only a couple hitches.
  • New Zealand has strict biosecurity checks, and we had to wait a while for them to clean Chris's hiking boots of any potential undesirable flora or fauna. Yes, you have to declare muddy hiking boots at immigration. If you want to save some time, clean off the mud before you fly.
  • We rented our car from Alamo online, but Alamo doesn't have a booth at Auckland Airport; it's operated by Europcar.
Awesome factoid about flying from the West Coast to New Zealand in winter (their summer). With daylight savings, we flew 13 hours, but only ended up with a 3-hour time difference. That's like flying to Hawaii. (Give or take a day.) NOW, at the end of April, it's a 5-hour time difference, since both countries have "fallen back" and/or "sprung forward" appropriately.

Another awesome factoid. Auckland lies at latitude 37, which is the same latitude as the Bay Area, except it's 37 South instead of 37 North.

But enough about the airport and flying.

After we landed, we checked in at Hotel de Brett, which had a nice lounge for us to relax in while we waited for the sun to rise properly. The breakfast at their cafe was very nice too. I had a delicious eggs benedict.


After breakfast, we strolled around downtown Auckland, which was largely deserted, so early on a Sunday morning. I laughed at the glass kiwis we saw in a shop. They're like the glass hummingbirds that my cousins and I loved in Helen City, GA. Except with no wings. Teeheehee.

I was also super-amused at this poster for the New Zealand Air Force. What does it say about your air force when it's represented by a flightless bird? Arguably this is even worse than the Aussie air force's mascot, a kangaroo. At least kangaroos get some air!


We later heard from a fellow Milford Track hiker that New Zealand only has like seven planes in its air force, so maybe it's appropriate that they chose an endangered species?


Kelly Tarlton's Underwater World

At about mid-morning, we took the shark bus (free shuttle) to Kelly Tartlton's, which is a really unique aquarium that features a clear, underwater tunnel through a shark tank.



Really a cool experience to see sharks swimming directly overhead! The entire thing is built in a former sewer tank. Lots of aquariums seem to have this now, but I think Kelly Tarlton's was the first to create this kind of underwater tunnel, in 1985.

The gigantic short-tailed stingray and the Emperor Penguins were really cool too, although I didn't manage to get very good pictures.

Restaurants We Enjoyed in Auckland


Tanuki – Yummy, popular sushi place that wasn't too expensive. We were lucky to get the last available table, at around 7 p.m. without a reservation. Afterwards there was always a long line to be seated. We heard that in New Zealand, when you order a "lemonade" they give you a lemon-lime soda. We tested that advice here, and it was true!



Divan Cafe – Lovely spot for breakfast, brunch, or lunch, whether you're in a rush and want to grab something to go, or want to sit down to a leisurely meal. Chris ordered french toast, and I had another eggs benedict. Both were delicious. Divan is right off of Queen Street, but we didn't spot it immediately, because it's tucked back in a little alley.



Mt. Eden Village Fish and Chips – This restaurant isn't in downtown Auckland, but it was our favorite fish and chips place on our trip. And we ate a LOT of fish and chips, because it seems to be as close as New Zealand has to a national food. The fish is super fresh and delicious, and they also have kumara fries (kumara being the Maori sweet potato). We ordered both the snapper and the tarakihi, and liked the snapper especially.

There's not a ton of space to sit as most people order takeout (or take-away in New Zealand lingo). But we there are a few chairs and a bar facing the window, if you want to eat there.

Saturday, April 02, 2011

New Zealand!

Chris and I had a fantastic vacation in New Zealand in mid-March! We spent two weeks enjoying the stunning and varied landscapes of the country – lush green rainforests, towering sheer cliffs covered with waterfalls, fjords, volcanoes, glowworm caves, and glorious picture-perfect coves with white sand and turquoise water.

AucklandWaiheke Island
QueenstownMilford Track
CoromandelTongariro and Taupo
Karekare Beach

We spent our two weeks like this:
  • 2 days in Auckland, with a day-trip to nearby Waiheke Island for some lovely wining and dining.
  • 1 day in Queenstown, to prep for the Milford Track.
  • 5 days on the breath-taking Milford Track, which has been called "the finest walk in the world".
  • 1 more day in Queenstown, to get some adventure sports in! Ziplines and jetboats!
  • 2 days in Hahei, on the Coromandel peninsula, to relax, recover, and lounge on the beach.
  • 2 days in Tongariro, where we were supposed to do the "Mt. Doom" hike, but we got rained out. We spent the day exploring Taupo and its geothermal and honey-farming features.
  • 1 day spelunking in the Waitomo glowworm caves. Totally more awesome than we expected!
  • 1 day strolling on the black sand beaches at Karekare, and driving back to Auckland Airport.
We've been wanting to go to New Zealand since 2001, when the Fellowship of the Ring came out, and it didn't disappoint! All the New Zealanders were incredibly warm and friendly, and I think my new favorite animal is the kiwi, with its furry feathers and cute wingless waddle.


My camera didn't quite survive the trip, since the Milford Track got pretty wet, and the LCD screen shorted out. After a few days of using the tiny view finder (I know, view finder?!) and dozens of "don't-worry-just-press-the-button-it's-taking-the-picture" explanations to kind strangers offering to take pictures of us, I was terrified that I was going to have hundreds of blank pictures when we got back.

To my HUGE relief, the pictures mostly came out fine. Some are dark or sort of misty and ethereal-looking, but that's not too far off from the reality. Certainly better than nothing!

Over the next week or so, I'll write more posts and highlight details and pics of the places we went. Highly recommend taking a trip to New Zealand if you've never been and you love the outdoors!